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The
Table Saw
(Norm's heart of the shop!)
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Before I exploring my current table-saw, I want to encourage
you to consider what I believe is THE MOST IMPORTANT upgrade you
can make to your saw. An over-arm blade cover. Protect your
lungs and your digits! You need not spend a fortune. I made mine
for about $80! Check out the details,
your lungs, fingers and hands will be glad you did!
Delta Limited
Edition Contractor's Saw
wired for 220v with
a Unifence
This is the third saw in my shop. I started out with a
Sears’s model, but gave it away when I went back in the Navy. I
then purchased a Ryobi BT3000.
In the picture of the saw (above), the over-arm blade cover,
out-feed table, rolling shop cabinet were all shop made saving
HUNDREDS of dollars! Please see the cabinets’ page (left) to see
the “under saw” cabinet I added under the right table
Don't have the time to build an out-feed table and looking
for a commercial product? I considered
this one before I made mine. In fact, I used the table
connection to give me ideas for how to connect mine.
I rewired the motor for 220v. On this Delta motor you pick up
an additional 1/2 HP more because the run capacitor is not used.
I highly recommend rewiring to 220v; the saw snaps on, motor
does not experience line loss problems (resulting in seemingly
more power) and runs more efficiently wired for 220v.
The length of my out-feed table is a couple inches shorter
than the commercial Delta product. I made mine from MDF, pine
scraps and high-pressure laminate ($40). The frame's wood came
from the base wood lot (trash or "dunnage" wood which is used to
ship munitions). The frame was made from a rocket motor case!
The legs are simply ripped 2X4s. The table connects to the saw
with two 1/4" bolts through the holes drilled in the back rail
angle iron (on a saw with a Unifence, the back rail serves no
purpose). Total cost: less than $41. Delta's solution is about
$180!
There are more pictures of how I
built this out-feed table on another page.
The shop made rolling shop cabinet simply slides into the
"hole" to add more out-feed space. The idea for this cabinet
comes from The New Yankee Workshop as well.
Osbourne EB-3
Miter Gauge
I would hate to have tried to build the
information center for my parish without this tool! Once it is
set-up, it remains dead-on accurate! I highly recommend this
upgrade for your saw.
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Alignment
Getting your blade aligned to dead zero to the miter slot is
very important if you want to make accurate and consistent cuts.
Alignment becomes less important if you are simply knocking down
large sheets of plywood. However, for accurate tight fitting
furniture joints alignment is a MUST!
This picture shows how much run out (wobble) of the arbor and
flange there is. This table saw had zero run out on the flange
and less that .00001 at the arbor. There is a great debate
whether paying this kind of money for a contractor saw is worth
it. I wonder if the $500 saws have these kinds of tolerances.
In order to ensure you are dead parallel with the miter slot,
you need a jig. Purchase an inexpensive
dial indicator
(magnetic base used below) and mount
it to some hardwood. This is all you need to make sure you are
aligned to dead zero!
These two pictures show that the saw blade is a bit less than
.003 out of alignment with the miter slot.
I purchased a system called
PALS
(Precision Alignment System) for less than a Mr. Jackson. This
allowed me to get the blade in PERFECT alignment in less than
five minutes. No trial and error. Just turn a couple allen-bolts
and dial it in!
I was AMAZED how PALS simplified aligning the blade.
This picture shows a picture of the PALS installed on the
trunion. Highly recommended.
One
of the slickest features of the Unifence is how simple it is to
adjust. Simply put a dial indicator on it and turn the
adjustment nuts. They happen to be the same size as the arbor
nut! Dial it into absolute zero.
Some argue that you should toe the fence out at the top.
However, if you are using a splitter there is really no need for
this. And as I said, for accurate joints you need alignments set
to zero!
Blades and Upgrades
The first blade I bought for my saw was a 6"
Freud Super Dado. It has performed flawlessly
for me. I bought the 6" because I did not want to stress my
small Ryobi saw, however, were I to purchase one today for the
Delta, I would buy the 8". You do not need the extra depth of
the 8” blade very often, but it nice too have when you do need
it!
I use a
Freud This Kerf (3/32") rip blade for ripping
hardwoods, and a
Forrest standard kerf (1/8") for crosscut and
sheet goods. Both have been great blades. The Forrest is pricey,
but what a cut! Worth every penny!
I also upgraded the standard V-belt on the saw to a
Link Belt. What a difference! Cut back the
belt chatter remarkably and 80% of the vibration. Should have
done this simple upgrade long ago!
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