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Jigs!
The
Wall 'o Jigs
For a description of each of these jigs, begin at the far
left and proceed around clockwise.
1. Edge beveling jig: I mount a router to the fence, which is
set at 15 degrees from the base. I use this jig to bevel large
tabletops, which would be unsafe standing on edge on the table
saw.
2. NYW Raised panel Jig: Made the jig for my Unifence after
watching Norm on the 2001 season Jigs episode.
3. Circle cutting jig: Thanks Norm!
4. Feather Board on top of sheet goods knock down jig. The
latter is simply a straight edge to run along my saw.
5. Tapering jig: Thanks again Norm.
6. Another Feather board on top of a long tapering jig. I
built the tall plant stand from NYW and made this jig from
watching the show. Thanks again Norm!
7. Auxiliary fence for Unifence so the saw blade does not
damage the aluminum fence.
8. Thin strip rip gauge (kind of looks like a 'P'): This jig
slips into the left miter slot. I set the screw on the jig from
1/8"- 1" and run the board up, move the fence over and lock it
down to cut identical repetitive strips. This way the strip
falls to the left of the blade to avoid kickbacks!
9. Box Joint Jig: made from the ShopNotes #62. Really a slick
jig, dead on accurate and easy to set up.
10. 5-in-1 Router system: from ShopNotes #61. This is the
flush trim jig (the only one I made from the article) works
great!
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Horizontal Router Mortising Jig
This is the most useful jig in the shop. It beats my Delta
benchtop mortise machine hands down! I built this jig to correct
the only flaw in the vertical router mortising jig (next jig
below)—it was hard to adjust the bit to the layout lines because
you have to look through a small slot. This jig solves that
problem and the fine vertical adjustment (knob below the table)
allows for very precise adjustments up or down. It is REALLY
easy to line up the bit with the lay out lines.
The table is held in place by four springs (bottom right
picture). This allows it to slide on the angled pieces to adjust
height.
You attach the router to a router plate and then slide behind
the front wall of the box. Two cleats hold it tight to the front
wall, and all one has to do it move the box forward on the
handle (it slides on a couple drawer slides) and then slide the
table back and forth. Sliding window locks limit the length of
the mortise. It works great and is faster to use, and faster to
set up than the jig below. You can find the plan for this jig in
ShopNotes (Issue #68).
 
See more pictures of this jig in
action.
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Vertical Mortise Jig
  
I built this jig from ShopNotes (issue 64)! I made perfect
mortises in all of the legs of the coffee table I built in less
than five minutes! Fast, accurate, and inexpensive! Its only
flaw is that it is hard to see the cut line. This jig was
replaced by the horizontal router jig above.
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Picture Frame Clamping Jig
This simple jig enables you to clamp all four sides of a
picture frame at once. It is simply some hardwood sticks glued
to a piece of plywood (MDO). The only critical part is the far
right corner MUST be square. Put on a little glue on the frame's
miters and turn the knobs for square frames with perfect miters!
The idea for this jig came from American Woodworker magazine
(October 2002).
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Table
Saw Sleds
This cut-off box (left picture) only takes about an hour to
build, and I can ALWAYS count on dead on 90 degree cut offs.
This 45-degree sled (center picture) makes perfect joints for
picture frames. Makes the first cut on the right side and the
second cut on the left side. The idea for this sled comes from
American Woodworker magazine (October 2002).
The inspiration for this Crosscut sled (right picture) came
from the ShopNotes article in issue #63. Works really well, dead
on accurate! It hangs near to my saw so I can get at it in a
flash!
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